“The bird is the word” is a catchy, repetitive phrase from the 1963 novelty rock song Surfin’ Bird by The Trashmen. The tune had such simple, infections lyrics like, “A-well-a ev’rybody’s heard about the bird,” and “B-b-b-bird, b-birdd’s a word,” and of course, “Papa-Oom-Mow-Mow,” that the animated show Family Guy parodied the bit with Peter Griffin doing hella dance and singing along. Since then the lines have been synonymous with something cool, exciting or widely known. Enter the restaurant Miss River in New Orleans where their bird is most definitely the word.
After a harrowing journey of flying through a Nor’Easter, my feathers were a bit ruffled. But I was so fortunate to dine with three of my favorite friends during a work trip to NOLA. We actually all planned to arrive a day prior to a conference just to partake in our annual celebratory dinner together. And thank goodness they trusted my restaurant instincts enough to join me for a great night with incredible eats. We ventured from our hotel to the swanky Four Seasons where Miss River proudly sits. Our mission was to sample the table sharable delicacy, the Carved Buttermilk-Fried Chicken with Dipping Sauces in all her glory.
We entered through the gorgeous hotel lobby and sauntered through to Miss River. The restaurant was sumptuous with a great vibe. It was a quiet night and we settled into our booth ready to enjoy.
While we perused the menu I was explaining that the bird only comes whole… as in they deep fried the entire clucker in one sizzling bath. You can’t order a scant six piece bucket or a measly thigh/wing combo here, oh noooo. You’re going full bird and getting the whole chicken presented tableside in a piping hot skillet. And then they take her back to properly cut her into edible sections. Cue the Peter Griffin dance!
Ok, I have to go back two dance steps. We actually started with the Bread Service which was squishy and divine Sweet Potato Brioche served warm with smooth, cane syrup butter and flaky sea salt. It was so staggeringly delicious that our full on chatter was briefly silenced so that we could enjoy the first tasty bites. What an intro. Even the two non-bread eaters did a little sample. Exceptional.
And as the conversation resumed we also enjoyed a round of delicious apps. The Heirloom Tomatoes with silky whipped goat cheese, aged balsamic vinegar, and fresh torn basil was a triumph and the composed Tuna Tartare with crab fat bread crumbs and pickled quail egg was a crowd pleaser.
We had four hungry adults and two were just tasting the chicken so we also got the special Grilled Garlic Butter Shrimp with garlic toast and an order of the Redfish Courtbouillon that was stewed with oysters, crab, shrimp, and the holy trinity. (The “holy trinity” in cooking refers to the foundational combination of onion, celery and bell pepper that is essential to Cajun and Creole cuisine. This aromatic base is used in countless dishes, like soups, stews, and sauces, to build complex flavors.) We polished off every bite of both!
And to discuss the bird is just… well to be honest I need many words to describe her. The crust was savory and so crispy. The thigh was super flavorful and not too salty. And I think you can only really judge the cook on a chicken based on the breast meat without any sort of fancy topping or crackly crust and this bird totally slayed. Each piece was perfectly tender and juicy good.
Never ones to skip dessert we dove into a Big Slice of Chocolate Doberge Layer Cake with Lemon Ice Cream. (Yes, the menu actually refers to this delicacy as a Big Slice. Swoon!) A Doberge cake is a multi-layered pastry specifically born in New Orleans adapted from the original Hungarian Dobos torte. It’s a cake with six or more thin layers of butter cake alternating with a thick, cooked custard or pudding filling. The cake is traditionally covered in a poured fondant, often chocolate or lemon flavored, though modern versions may feature buttercream or ganache. This fudgy, incredibly moist, rich wonder was spectacular and hauntingly good.
We also ordered the Baked Alaska– another layered creation with meringue dollops, café au lait ice cream and flourless chocolate cake drizzled tableside with a thin pourable chocolate sauce. This cube was gigantic! The lightly torched meringue on the outside acted as an insulator, creating a contrast between the hot, crispy exterior and the cold, creamy interior. We barely made a dent and effort was sincerely made.
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