The quest to bring home goodies from Paris was an exhaustive one this year. With so many fancy grocery stores, famous epiceries, and a wish list a mile long, the hunt for tasty treats was a terrific part of almost every mouthwatering day. Of course I had to do local food shopping for the flat, but it was actually hard not to break into all the snacks I was hoarding to specifically take home.
By far the most well-known spot and my all-time favorite place for treats is La Grande Épicerie on the Left Bank. Translated exactly this means The Big Grocery Store and is it ever. This is an absolute stunner located right next to the extraordinary retail mecca, Le Bon Marché. And did you know Le Bon Marché was the first department store in the world? It opened in 1852 in Paris at the instigation of Aristide Boucicaut and his wife Marguerite. They were both in favor of “a new kind of store that would thrill all the senses.” Well Ari and Margie, you were certainly onto something. I wish I knew you then!
Today both of these stores are owned by the uber fancy LVMH group, with Le Bon Marché posing as a high-end destination department store, and La Grande Épicerie essentially operating as its dedicated food emporium. This is my kind of in-house cafeteria, friends! Although separate structures with multiple entrances, the two buildings are connected overhead by an elevated foot bridge. And if you ask me, that path is like a swirly gateway to heaven.
La Grande Épiceire is the largest food galleria in all of Paris. To explain the scale, they have over 550 “references” of chocolate bars alone. Sweet Jesus.
Encompassing multi-levels and an outrageous assortment of everything under the sun, it’s impossible not to be in awe of the actual space. With a selection of over 30,000 items in seventeen different departments, the aisles are loaded with classics, gems, giftables, iconic products, and the latest novelties.
From their impressive bakery to their spectacular creamery, a gorgeous fresh fruit and veggie center station, focused aisles for biscuits, cakes, honeys, and spreads, they offer a fish monger, butcher shop, cheese factory, brewery, cellar and more.
Some of the interior locations I love best are contained in their “Salty” grocery section. They house an astonishing 600 salts, peppers, herbs and flavorings from all four corners of the globe. And yes, the prices reflect the hefty sourcing fees. Their sauces and condiments, oils, vinegars, dressings, and mustards constitute a chef’s dream pantry. If Willy Wonka turned savory he’d move right in, Oompa Loompas in tow.
Visiting LGE is usually a day two activity when I am in France. I’d love to rush over the minute I land, but I always need to unpack, settle in, make a shopping list and try to ditch the jet lag to get on Paris time. So on day two, my first full day, I Metro’d to the Left Bank for a little grocery run.
After scoring staple items for the flat– butter, more butter, schmancy jarred chocolate mousse, the salted chocolate shortbread cookies I’m obsessed with, packaged sliced turkey that’s so hard to find in France, apples, Comté, cheddar, brie and some good lookin’ roasted chicken and sides for dinner, I took some mental notes of the haul I’d be planning later in the trip. And that shopping spree is one of those times where even I live vicariously through me! Here’s what I bought…
On a puddle wonderful Thursday later in the month I arrived armed with big plastic shopping bags determined to keep my dry goods safe from the elements. I even brought an insulated thermal bag from home to ensure travel for my last round of refrigerated items. My heart was pounding! I almost felt like I was on one of those grocery game shows where the contestants have a ticking clock to pull all their desired ingredients. I couldn’t wait to be grabby with the goodies.
First up was eight sleeves of those insane Chocolate Galettes by Goulibeur I mentioned earlier. They come in a soft paper tube that houses fifteen cocoa shortbreads. Words cannot properly express how good these cookies taste! Sweet with just the right amount of salty fun. Just so you know, this stash has to get me through the better part of eleven months of US cookie consumption and I do so loathe to have a lull in my biscuit intake. (Who does?!) So I went cray cray with an abundant armful to ensure chocolatey crunching into my distant future.
I also scooped up two boxes of Broyés du Poitou also by Goulibeur. These are flowery shaped French butter shortbreads in a purple and grey rectangular box. They are a sister cookie to my faves so I knew they would be delish. I could have licked the package they looked so good. (But no, I maintained some self-control. Have a little faith in me please!)
In the savory family I bought three boxes of Les ApériGaufres which are crispy waffle crackers in a butter, cheese, and chive flavor. They are just so light and snackable! Why is nobody talking about these yellow boxes of happiness?
I did get one Bordier salted butter that they vacuum sealed for me. And several jars of different mustards along with one big tube of good mayo, a jar of lemon parsley mayo, onion confit, a small bottle of take-home Angelina hot chocolate (a must) and I picked up a tube of Crème de Salidou which is a salted butter caramel cream. OMG. Yum.
I’m happy to report that all items did make it into the luggage and crossed the ocean safely. Some of the cookie tubes were delicately placed into those famous bleu boots I told you about so they were slightly misshapen when they emerged from packing. But they popped back into shape after they were rescued from my blue heaven.
Some items I’ve mentioned are available stateside at grocers like Zabar’s in NYC both in store and online and at Simply Gourmand or My Panier online… but it’s just not the same. If you do have the chance to visit Paris, make La Grande Épiceire a delicious stop on your tour of The City of Light and splurge! You’ll be so thrilled that you did.
And then when you’re home and you bite into a great French biscuit, or schmear some amazing mustard on a good ol’ American turkey sandwich, or break a piece off of an outstanding French chocolate bar, your tastebuds will be transported back to Paris and the memories will flood back making your goodies taste that much more delicious! Mais oui!!
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